OK, the fender options / question seems to pop up all the time. Here's
my guide to some (not all) of the options available.
OEM OR CLOSE TO OEM LOOK
Repairing stock fenders
This involves grinding down rust to bare metal, patching holes
with new steel and welding it in place. Grind down the welds and
bondo / blend the blemishes. Repaint. It's not usually recommended,
but possible to fix fenders with fiberglass. This option tends
not to last as long as replacing with fresh steel, although some
people have found success in using alternative repair products
such as Por-15, etc..
*Make sure to properly weld the rear seams (between the quarter panel
and chassis) together as this provides structural integrity for the
Replacing with OEM Toyota fenders - new and used
Most people look for used fenders in better condition than
their own for the front and swapping them out. The early zenki
models have front and rear fenders without plastic trim. This
means there are no mounting holes in the sides of the fenders,
resulting in a cleaner look and potentially less rust. Due to
this, zenki fenders are usually more desirable.
For the rear, you may be able to cut a better quality
panel from a donor car and welding the new ones in place. *Make sure
to properly weld the rear seams (between the quarter panel and chassis)
together as this provides structural integrity for the car.
New front fenders are available from Toyota for approx
$250 or so per side. Check with your local Toyota parts dealer. Rear
quarters were available at one point but has since been discontinued.
Replace fenders with "jobber" parts
These are non OEM Toyota parts, some fit better than others.
Some also do not look exactly the same as OEM fenders but might
be close enough - depends on your personal taste. Some have poorer
quality steel than OEM, and some are rumoured to rust out faster
There are several techniques to rolling fenders, some longer
lasting and better looking than others. Rolling doesn't really "widen" the
fenders that much, but it does push the inner lip upwards creating
more room for wider wheels or increased steering angle.
The best way to roll fenders is to use a professional fender
roller. It mounts onto the lugs and an arm with a wheel on the
end is pushed under the fender lip. With each pass, the wheel
is extended further, pushing the lip out.
Others use a more "ghetto fabulous" tool like a
baseball bat to roll the fender lip using the tire as leverage. This usually
results in a lumpy fender due to the uneven pressure, but to each their
Regardless, fender rolling usually results in cracked
paint on the fender lip or the fender itself. This may require paint repair
to prevent the fender from rusting. To make it last longer, some people
will weld the inner lip in place and seal it to protect it from moisture.
Plastic fender covers
These are not as big or "flared" as fenders flares, they are
merely plastic covers that retain the OEM look. They are usually
a perfect fit and mount via double sided tape. The only ones
I have seen so far are the ones from the hardcore JDM tuners
like Global, East Bear, etc..
There are some "generic" plastic fender covers as well too, but there may
be fitment issues and much more trimming and fitting involved. Best
to contact those that have tried this and find out what brand they
used or where they got them.
There are many fender flares available on the market, some
more extreme than others, some that are not so much flares but
borderline replacement quarter panels. Here are some options.
Jubiride: larger sized crescent shaped overfenders
front and rear, made of fiberglass with mounting holes.
Origin Labs: Fiberglass fender
with molded in flare for the front and a crescent shaped overfender
flare for the rear
Chargespeed: "Crescent" shaped fender flares made of
Crystal Body Yokohama Fender flares: Very wide fender flares,
with mounting holes made of fiberglass. Requires wide fitment
Goodline: They make fiberglass versions of replacement and
Modified inc.: they make replicas of most of the JDM fender
flares. more affordable but may require more fitment / trimming.
Toycoolrolla fender flares: Standard "crescent" shaped
fender flares, with mounting holes and flared a few inches beyond
stock. He makes USDM flares for the front and rear as well as JDM
front and rear flares (to accommodate JDM bumpers). Affordable, may
require some fitment and shaping work for perfect fit.
WIDEBODY/FULL QUARTER PANEL REPLACEMENT
TRD N2 kit: Loved by some, loathed by others - to each their
own. The original kit was designed for a wider stance and more
aerodynamic flow. Most JDM tuners have copied or replicated this
design at some point or another.
J-Blood: quarter panel replacement. The front is 30mm wider
than stock, the rear is 40mm wider. The front fender replaces
the OEM fender but the rear requires the quarter panel to be
riveted in place or blended in. Very nice looking and great quality,
but not cheap.